Our Holcomb Valley trip Sat and Sun. Brian, Wes, Jen and I leave San Diego early in the morning at 8am, aka 10am realistic time. We all pile our gear into Brian's Toyota Rav4 and head north on the 15 towards Big Bear and then into up the dirt road into Holcomb Valley. We arrived at the Pinnacles around noon and after a quick bite to eat we hiked towards the crag.
We had no guide book, but I do remember my last Holcomb trip where I did my first lead climb on Coyotes at Sunset. We arrived back at the same area, Coyote Crag. For some reason I was feeling super confident and started out leading and on sighted Bye Crackie.
I then moved over to the far left of the face and attempted to on-sight Black Magic Poodle. I fell leading it and took a small swing. As I fell I, by instinct, grabbed the rope and caught my fall. I don't have much experience leading or falling on a lead so that is something I need to get better at. Luckily the rope burn wasn't too bad as my calloused hands were able to take the blunt of the burn. After figuring out the sequence I was able to finish the route.
After my defeat, I headed back over to the right side of Coyote and led Coyotes at Sunset. I finished up the day with a top rope of Golden Poodle.
- Bye Crackie Lead 5.7 (link)
- Black Magic Poodle Lead/Fall 5.9 (link)
- Coyotes at Sunset Lead 5.8 (link)
- Golden Poodle TR 5.9 (link)
As the sun sank into the distance we walk back to the car. After realizing that we would need to move both Wes' and Brian's crash pads to the roof and re-pack the Rav4 before being able to drive down to the official campsites, we decided to setup camp at the pinnacles. The only downside is that there are no fires allowed.
As Jen and I unpack the car and setup the tent, Brian and Wes head back to the Central Pinnacles where he has a cell phone signal and is able to text the rest of our group. Only downside is that they locked the door to the Rav4, which had all our clothes and food. Its two hours later by the time we decide to go looking for them. Jen decides to stay with a group of campers near the entrance, while I hike back towards the climbing area looking for them in shorts and flip flops. Its cold, but at least the hike warms me up.
About half way between the entrance and the Central Pinnacles, I run into Wes and Brian. We quick head back to the camp to make food.
The second day started out early as the sun rose and entered the tent. After a quick cup of instant coffee, oatmeal and some more beef jerky we headed back towards the Central Pinnacles. On the way there, Wes noticed a climb that was really interesting. I have yet to identify this route, but is it on the left side of the trail shortly after leaving the main parking area. There is a single bolt and then on the left there is a crack that moves diagonally up and to the left. Wes led this route and protected with a Green .75 Black Diamond Camalot C4. At the top he set 3 cams for the anchor. I was able to flash it after watching Wes and Brian climb it.
After the unidentified route. We hiked towards Gold Wall. There we went for the Gold Standard as the first climb. Its 7 bolt 80ft pitch that looked to disappear up and to the left. Even after hearing it was 5.6 I decided to top rope it first before attempting to lead. Because of its height it was much easier than it looked to lead.
As I was climbing Gold Rush a group of climbers to the left of us on, what I later discovered to, Pistol Pete. That area is called Doc Holiday Wall which has some intimidating looking climbs that overlook the entire valley. Wes led Pistol Pete and I was able to top rope it. There were several difficult parts for me. The start where smearing was needed to get to the first bolt and the undercling transition to the right were both cruxes for me.
Now that I have found some better resources for route, I can't wait to head back and try some more climbs. Maybe this time we can plan it a little better so that we are in the shade more of the time and not get so sunburned.
