After relaxing in the cool climates of Essaouira, we head east to Fez with a stopover at Casa Blanca. The train ride was cheap and at the station we couldn’t figure out why people were scrambling to get on the train before some of the other passengers even go off. We were probably the last group on the train. As it turns out buying a ticket on a train does not reserve a seat. All the isles and area between the carts are full of people. The saying “sardines in a can” is quite fitting for our situation.
Fez has probably the largest and more confusing Medina in Morocco. Most people hire guides just to get around. Our hostel was able to book a guide us at a reasonable price. However to be honest, it was really disappointing. We got see some cool things and learn some interesting facts about Fez, but most of time we were just led to his friend’s shops where a salesman gave us a pitch about buying leather, antiques, carpets, etc.
The doors here are really interesting. They usually have two knockers. One is for male visitors and the other is for females. This allows the woman of the household to know whether to cover up when answering the door.
One of the gold and bronze shops we visit has a wealth of handmade items. One of the works was currently making a plate. This is all done by hand without the aid of a stencil. This method makes every plate or item unique. The worker has been doing this all his life and you tell his eye sight has been severely damaged from staring at such intricate work for so long.
The Fez tanneries are the famous ones that all guide books usually talk about it. It is a lot bigger than the ones in Marrakesh and much more tourist-friendly. You don’t actually get down on the ground level where the smell is. The leather shop is above the tanneries and you have a bird’s eye view of the entire process.
Ramadan started on the last day that we are Fez and the entire feeling of the town changed. Most shops are closed and there are limited numbers of people on the street. The month of Ramadan is a time where all Muslim people fast from sunrise to sunset. This act of fasting teaches patience, sacrifice and humility and is done for the sake of God. It makes all the locals crankier than usual and all public transportation is now running on a limited basis. We coin this new attitude “Ramadanry”.
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